I recently had the incredible fortune of hearing four surf writers speak on a panel at the Bellingen Readers and Writers Festival.
Kim Satchell is a poet, academic and surfer who is works in Cultural Studies and is a member of Kangaloon Creative Ecologies. Kangaloon is well worth checking out. http://www.kangaloon.org
Rusty Miller is the 1965 US surfing champion, one of the first non Hawaiians to surf Waimea, an awesome harmonica player and what I think of when I picture the good old days of surfing.
Derek Hynd is the one in that youtube video surfing a finless board at J Bay! He is one of the first and best Australian surf writers and is also a shaper. He is grounded and super inspiring in the way the non-commercialised surfer always is!
Taylor Miller is the author of the unexpected thesis ‘Australian and Italian Surfing: A Comparitive Study’ which I haven’t read yet but am going to read tomorrow on the way down the coast! I can’t wait.
You can listen to the panel here: http://soundcloud.com/colesnewworld/reading-and-writing-waves