new book

Ben gave me a book: highSurf- The World’s Most Inspiring Surfers/Waveriding As A Way Of Life/The Ocean As Teacher by Tim Baker. Here are some quotes from the introduction of highSurf that I want to share:

“The claims of acid guru Timothy Leary in 1978 don’t seem quite so far fetched nearly thirty years later: ‘Surfers are the “throw-aheads” of mankind, not the dregs; they aren’t the black sheep of humanity, but the futurists and they are leading the way to where man ultimately wants to be.’

“…as surfing’s stocks have risen, it seems its essential teachings are in danger of being lost. As surfing’s influence has grown, we have begun to miss the point. Rather than the mainstream moving towards us- to embrace surfing’s lessons of flow, balance, spontaneity, connection to nature- surfing has moved towards the mainstream…Surfing is finally getting its message across, but it is the wrong message, contrived to sell clothing to the masses…”

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