new book

Ben gave me a book: highSurf- The World’s Most Inspiring Surfers/Waveriding As A Way Of Life/The Ocean As Teacher by Tim Baker. Here are some quotes from the introduction of highSurf that I want to share: “The claims of acid guru Timothy Leary in 1978 don’t seem quite so far fetched nearly thirty years later: ‘Surfers are the “throw-aheads” of mankind, not the dregs; they … Continue reading new book

I Am Gonna Surf On Maggie’s Wave Some More

The other day we indulged in one of life’s great pleasures…the midweek surf. 8.30am Wednesday as we headed to the surf the rest of the world it seemed was headed in the opposite direction.  Toward the city. Toward cubicles. Passive aggressive office emails about the importance of washing your own mug. Notes in the cookie jar who ate the last monte carlo? The creepy guy … Continue reading I Am Gonna Surf On Maggie’s Wave Some More