Halfway through my quest to figure out what is in Fruche I watched part three of Food Additives: An Edible Adventure on SBS. It was presented by a food writer called Stefan Gates who was so pro-additive he talked about ‘the magic we’ve come to expect from supermarket food.’ The show started with him glossing over public fears of food additives, then the documentary goes on to posit that artificial sweeteners are saving us all from dying of diabetes and all of the emulsifiers, stabilisers and thickeners that the food companies are pumping into our food are the ‘unsung heroes of food science’. The worst bit is where he holds up a bottle of salad dressing and marvels at how the herbs stay suspended in the bottle. Or gets excited about margarine. The documentary is a thinly veiled marketing exercise. Shame. In 2008 he won the Slow Food Award for his series Cooking In The Danger Zone and when he was a kid he was on the cover of a Led Zeppelin album. What went wrong? Did someone from Kraft make him an offer he couldn’t refuse? Or did Qingdao Dehui Ocean Trading Co Ltd (manufacturers of E407) threaten to cut off his balls?